In a thoroughly enjoyable read from the City Newspaper in Rochester, N.Y., reporter James Leach describes what he calls the “extremes” in approaches to coffee roasting in the local market.
The report explores the methods of longtime Rochester roaster Joe Palozzi, contrasting them with those of a newer roaster in town, Joe Bean Coffee Roasters. Of the latter, Leach writes:
The basic machine looks not unlike the one Palozzi uses, but the hardware attached to it, and indeed the room in which it sits, looks like a university research lab. Turiano combines his knowledge of the growth region, farm, harvest date, and type of beans he roasts with a connoisseur’s sense of flavor, aroma, and texture, creating a profile database for each type of bean that he roasts. This information, combined with ultra-fine control over temperature over the course of the roasting cycle, creates coffees that are engineered to be brewed slowly and meticulously.
Palozzi’s methods, however, are characterized as more old school, as the roaster reportedly relies less on technology to roast small batches of beans. Writes Leach:
At his roastery located inside Java’s at the Market, Joe Palozzi, who has been roasting coffee beans in the Rochester area under one name or another for more than 30 years, pulls a tiny scoop from the latest incarnation of his century-old coffee roaster and looks closely at the smoking beans heaped in it. He turns the scoop this way and that in the morning light. He slides it back in to the roaster, and pulls another sample before walking back to his chair to chat for a few minutes.
While also exploring other roasting operations in the city, the report characterizes the two approaches as somehow fundamentally different:
Palozzi and Turiano define the extremes of coffee roasting in the Rochester area, an old guard and a new in the field of artisanal, small-batch coffee roasting. Within this relatively small field there are a variety of approaches to roasting coffee, and wide variations in quality and consistency between roasting establishments.
The full story: City Newspaper