Spella Caffè at the Woodblock Chocolate Manufactory in Portland. All images courtesy of Spella Caffè.
One year after opening a shop that reclaimed its downtown Portland, Oregon roots, Italian-style coffee stalwart Spella Caffè is opening a second location across the Willamette River, in Northeast Portland.
Spella Caffè has partnered with family-run, bean-to-bar manufactory Woodblock Chocolate to become the operator of a previously dormant 1,000-square-foot cafe space inside the chocolatier’s 4,800-square-foot Irvington neighborhood location.
“The cafe had basically been sitting idle for years until we met and they asked me to come in and run it,” Spella Caffè Founder Andrea Spella told Daily Coffee News. “We will be the ambassadors for Woodblock and selling retail chocolate at the cafe, along with our classic Italian menu. So after 18 years of customers asking for us to open on the East side, we finally are.”
The shop offers a warm, wood-heavy interior with high industrial ceilings, white walls and exposed wooden rafters. Guests get clear views of the chocolate workshop through large windows that divide the space, while chocolate factory tours will be ongoing.
Roasting equipment on display includes three vintage Royal roasters, each more than a century old. The largest is currently used for roasting cacao nibs, while two smaller machines have to this point been artifacts.
“They all run and work perfectly and I’m hoping to bring one back into the roasting room to do some special roasts that are a collaborative effort with Woodblock,” Spella said. “Also, if we have the time and energy, we can bring one outside and roast chestnuts, hazelnuts, etc.”
Designed and built by Woodblock cofounders Charley and Jessica Wheelock, the cafe features a an abundance of handcrafted wood features and fixtures, including floors, cabinets and the marble-topped wooden bar. Much of the wood came from the floors of shipping containers.
“After 1 million miles of journey the wood floors in containers are supposed to be retired and decommissioned, so this is what Charley used,” said Spella. “And I have to mention the Carrara marble counters. There’s our Italian connection.”
Another Italian connection atop the Carrara marble is Spella’s 16-year-old Faema E61 Legend espresso machine, rejuvenated and tuned for Spella Caffè by technician Chris Ryan to mimic the water delivery profile of a manual lever machine.
“It is in essence a ‘lever’ machine, like I always use, but historically the next step after the creation of the lever machine,” said Spella, whose downtown Portland location is famous for espresso hand-pulled on a refurbished 3-group Rancilio Classe 6 Leva espresso machine. “As I have used Rancilio for 30 years, this is a whole new avenue for us. I’m taking a leap of faith to embrace the new.”
Technically the Woodblock cafe is Spella’s third opening since returning to retail service after the COVID-19 pandemic, although the company closed its Harrison Square location earlier this fall.
Late last year, Andrea Spella also partnered with Campana Restaurant Chef and Owner George Kaden to open Pronto Gelato, a small-batch gelato shop in Portland’s Cully neighborhood. Spella Caffè now takes even greater pride in its affogato, and is currently developing a Spella Caffè Espresso Gelato.
Roasting for all of these endeavors as well as online sales and wholesale customers continues to occur in “Rossalina,” the 5.5-kilo US Roaster Corp machine at the Spella roastery in Southeast Portland, about 1.5 miles from the new cafe. While special batches may soon be developed in one of the century-old Royals at Woodblock, Spella is confident Rossalina will not be jealous.
“I had a very long talk with ‘Rosie,’ and she’s very understanding,” said Spella. “She knows that she’s the main gal in my life.”
Spella Caffè at Woodblock begins its soft-opening phase this week, with a grand opening celebration scheduled for Saturday, Nov. 2, after which time Andrea Spella intends to catch up on some much-needed rest.
“I have been going nonstop for a couple of years, especially the last six months,” said Spella. “I’m truly exhausted and want to recharge the batteries with travel, espresso, food and jazz.”
Spella Caffè at Woodblock Chocolate is located at 1715 NE 17th Ave. in Portland. Tell DCN’s editors about your new coffee shop or roastery here.
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Howard Bryman
Howard Bryman is the associate editor of Daily Coffee News by Roast Magazine. He is based in Portland, Oregon.
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